Head south for a beach vacation this time of year? So what if it’s not exactly bikini weather. There’s something about having a sandy stretch all to yourself (or to share with some sea lions and elephant seals) that makes braving the briskness well worth it. Besides, if you head for the central coast village of Cambria, you can always warm up in its art galleries and antique shops, as well as its Main Street, USA, ambience. Its quaint Old West charms aren’t exactly a secret: weekend warriors from both the Bay Area and Los Angeles flock to this town, around three hours’ drive from each, for spontaneous getaways. But it is sure to be less crowded than its dramatic neighbor to the north, Big Sur, and that ritzy enclave to the south, Santa Barbara. It’s the best example of that small-town beach feel (with sufficient diversions) on the central coast. And with a bit of planning, you can enjoy true finds, whether it’s your first visit or your 15th.

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If you’ve never been to Hearst Castle, take advantage of being so close to San Simeon to check out this ostentatious marvel. Even if you have visited Julia Morgan’s most famous creation, there’s a variety of tours to choose from beyond the introductory one, which features the Neptune Pool and the great hall. The evening tour, for which “living history” volunteers dress up in period costume like some of William Randolph Hearst’s famous guests, starts running again in March. 800-444-4445, www.hearstcastle.com.

If you’re looking for a house tour that’s a tad more rustic, there’s Nitt Witt Ridge in Cambria. Arthur Harold Beal (aka Der Tinkerpaw) built his own palace from materials that he salvaged over 51 years. The structure contains some discarded Hearst Castle pieces, but most of it is made up of sand concrete, abalone shells, and old beer cans. Beal died in 1992, but the hypnotically ramshackle building is now maintained by Michael and Stacey O’Malley, who also lead tours. 881 Hillcrest Dr., Cambria, 805-927-2690.

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Boxy motels line Moonstone Beach, and adorable B&Bs pepper the town’s streets, but the most relaxing experience is to be had by renting one of the many private homes available along the water and up the seaside hill. Your first choice should be Walter and Elaine Evans’s Big Red House. The airy structure is decorated with impressive art and furniture far more modern than the typical seaside cottage’s. A two-block walk from the beach, it has cul-de-sac seclusion, ocean views, and creature comforts like DVDs and magazines to curl up with. The Evanses are next door, on hand to offer advice should you choose to leave the comforts of their home. www.thebigredhouse.com, www.cambriavacationrentals.com.

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The cavernous antique shops lining Main Street can keep you busy for hours marveling over century-old lanterns, vintage Italian sunglasses, 1980s ephemera, and just about any other collector’s item you can think of. Two of the best are Antiques on Main (2338 Main St.) and Country Collectibles Antique Mall (2380 Main st.). For eclectic modern home decor, Home Arts (727 Main St.) has items to coo over at every turn. With one display inspired by a coral reef and whimsical fish pieces by ceramist Jonathan Adler, the shop will fill you with beachy, breezy decorating ideas.

A short drive south to the town of Harmony (pop. 18) rewards you with a visit to Harmony Pottery (805-927-4293), which carries works by many local artists, and to the town’s post office. Open since 1914, it’s a throwback to California’s Wild West past.

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A weekend in Cambria wouldn’t be complete without picking up a board or a paddle or at least lacing up your sneakers. A postbreakfast hike at the city’s beloved East West Ranch yields breathtaking Pacific views from a windswept plateau dotted with dozing herons—keep an eye out for migrating whales. If the excess of Hearst Castle leaves you feeling a bit dazed, you can shake it off by kayaking or pier-fishing at the sheltered William Randolph Hearst Memorial State Beach, just across the highway from the turnoff for the castle. East West Ranch, 4605 windsor blvd., cambria. kayak rental: sea for yourself, 800-717-5225.

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Both locals and travelers reserve a table at the Sow’s Ear, downtown, for special occasions. For over 20 years, the signature flowerpot bread, a dark and light loaf baked right into the container, has landed on the table first. But save room for inventive comfort food like lobster potpie and pork chops with olallieberry sauce. If there’s a wait, pop into Camozzi’s Saloon a few doors down for a beer and to check out the prospector memorabilia lining the walls. The Sow’s Ear, 2248 Main St., Cambria, 805-927-4865, www.thesowsear.com. Camozzi’s saloon, 2262 Main St., Cambria.

Of the short list of breakfast options in the area, Robin’s serves a Sunday brunch that includes vegetarian and Middle Eastern–influenced dishes in a vine-enveloped patio. We recommend warm­ing up with a bowl of the salmon bisque—it’s the seaside’s best eye-opener. 4095 Burton Dr., Cambria, 805-927-5007.