When asked to describe his ideal meal, Two’s chef and owner David Gingrass responded “roast chicken and mashed potatoes is hard to beat.” While the chef pays homage to the go-to classics, expanding horizons was the order of the day at Gingrass’s Dinner in the Kitchen.

Each month, Two opens its kitchen to 12 diners who are chosen through an online raffle. These self-avowed foodies get the chance to partake in five courses of experimental dishes and put in their two cents on what was good, what needs tweaking, and what plain doesn’t fly. Besides making his customers feel special, Gingrass sculpts future menus based on their feedback, making Dinner in the Kitchen a win-win for this clever chef.

The hostess led us into the inner sanctum behind a bustling kitchen. A complex array of invigorating smells greeted us as the staff chopped, sautéed, braised, seasoned, and plated all manners of gourmet fare. The excitement buzzed through the group as we took our seats around the long simply set table, nestled in a well-lit back corner and separated from the dinner-rush madness by a wall of silver, shining, impressive-looking appliances. We quickly bonded over our evening’s special menu, the anticipation, and our glasses of fine wine from the list of selected pairings.

Gingrass’s unpretentious creations didn’t disappoint. The conversation, rather lively at times, would lull into a chorus of “mmm” and “wow” each time a new dish was delivered. Pen and paper were provided in hopes of garnering our honest opinions, but the only complaint around the table after each plate was cleared was the general lack of constructive criticism. The menu, which varies from month to month, included roasted Monterey Bay sardines with lemon cucumber salad and salsa verde, spicy shrimp pizza with gypsy peppers, farmer’s cheese and cilantro, and a beautifully roasted leg of Sonoma lamb with cherry tomatoes, brown garlic, and polenta.

Chef Gingrass, who had spent most of the evening cooking just a few feet away, joined us at the table for dessert (grilled Frog Hollow peaches with champagne gelée and almond cream) to discuss the meal, the changes he was considering, and to give us some insight on his own creative process and methods. Setting the mood with his calm and welcoming demeanor, Gingrass helped the flow of conversation. Soon, it felt like a group of old friends around a kitchen table. I left that evening with a full stomach, a behind-the-scenes culinary perspective, and even a few phone numbers from my fellow food enthusiasts.

Two restaurant: 22 Hawthorne Street (at Howard), S.F., 415-777-9779