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Even at 47, Jean-Luc Naret, director of the Michelin Guides, still spends most of his time on the road. This week, he's trucking through three days in San Francisco, then returning to his home in Paris, then heading to New York before departing a few days later for Tokyo. His life as the "pretty face" (in his words) of the 108-year-old guides is a busy one. At our most recent meeting at One Market restaurant (which proudly showcases its one-star Michelin rating at the entrance), this debonair globetrotter talks about Slanted Door, celebrity chefs, and his personal obsessions in the City by the Bay.
I thought Chicago was the Second City, but San Francisco was the second city to receive Michelin ratings. San Francisco was a natural choice after New York.
Why? What interests you about San Francisco’s food culture? What I like about San Francisco is that everyone is so passionate about food. Over dinner, they are discussing the food they ate last night and where they will be eating tomorrow. Here, movie stars are not the celebrities, the chefs are. Everything revolves around food, and you have access to fresh produce from great organic farms.
In year three of the Bay Area guides, what are you looking forward to? With the third Bay Area guidebook set to hit shelves in October, we are eager to see how the new restaurants match up. We are also waiting to see if the top restaurants keep their starred status, and how the movement of chefs will affect the ratings.
Let’s talk about the book itself. I understand that you don’t personally go out and rate any restaurants. Is that true? I am the pretty face in the company. People recognize me when I go out, and our inspectors dine anonymously with expenses paid for by Michelin.
How are ratings determined? The anonymous inspectors dine a minimum of two times, and as many as 10 times, to give our readers the experience of a regular diner, not that of a high-profile diner. They are rated based on five categories: choice of ingredients, how the flavors are kept, the personality of the chef, how the ingredients are cooked, and consistency. The restaurant, not the chef, earns the star.
If you had to entertain visitors in San Francisco, where would you take them? First thing I would do is drive across the Golden Gate Bridge and stop to enjoy the view from the North Bay. Then I would stop at that little Italian café on the waterfront, not Starbucks, and head over to Napa Valley. I would first have lunch at Bouchon in Yountville, then check in to the Aubèrge du Soleil. After some wine tastings, I would have dinner at French Laundry [Thomas Keller’s three-star restaurant].
The next day, I would check in to my favorite circular suite with panoramic views of the Bay at the Hotel Vitale [in San Francisco]. Walk down to the Slanted Door for lunch—it’s a great Bib Gourmand [quality food at more reasonable prices]. I would definitely stop off at the Apple store and Abercrombie & Fitch for my two kids. Tonight, I want to try one of the newer restaurants in town, like Orson or South. I try to visit the new places as well. I'd also like to make it up to Tiburon and Tahoe for some outdoor activities.
Would you—or have you ever—lived here? Or perhaps because of your busy lifestyle, would you retire here? I would definitely retire here, though probably not until I’m 85 [laughs]. I have spent the summer here with my family, and we really enjoy it. I enjoy sailing in the Bay, biking up to Muir Woods, and visiting Tahoe. Every time I come here, it’s like I am coming home. When I fly over the Bay when coming into San Francisco, it says to me, "Welcome home." It’s so beautiful here.
In July’s Best of the Bay Area issue, we'll talk about obsessions. What are you obsessed with?
Beauty: In every single aspect of life, in nature, in restaurant decor, women, even in the iPhone, as long as it's done with an eye for detail.
My home: When I am there, I throw on my rollerskates and hit the city. When I go to the office, I bike—it’s a great way to discover Paris.
Food (of course): San Francisco is my favorite American city to dine in. Though I spend a lot of time in airplanes, where I wish the food was better.
What I call the "+1( s=e+1)": This Einsteinesque equation is the unexpected surprises in service. Like when I arrive at the Hotel Vitale, they ask, "How is your day, Mr. Naret?" It’s the little details like remembering your name—the extra mile.
Living like a local: Getting a feel for the city and trying to integrate. In Rome, I travel by scooter; and in Tokyo, I ride the metro; and in New York, I walk. [In San Francisco, Naret fits in well with his iPhone glued to his hand.]
The outdoors: Whether I'm biking in the North Bay or hiking in Tahoe, I love being outside.
As I get ready to take his picture, Naret says he will meet me in a minute. “I am a real Frenchman,” he says with a smile. “I always have to have my espresso after lunch.”
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