July 2008
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A mere decade ago, the blocks between the Bay Bridge approach and China Basin had little to offer in the way of fun. Set to welcome baseball fans and monied condo dwellers, it was still essentially a swath of wide, unpeopled streets. But today, the confluence of SoMa, South Beach, and Mission Bay has produced a new commercial demi-neighborhood, somewhat centered around the Caltrain station at Fourth and Townsend Streets. Built amid industrial warehouses (now full of Web 2.0 startups) and low-income housing, the hub is still light on street life. But even that is changing.
Case in point: A South Beach/Mission Bay neighborhood association just came together and is planning two block parties for later this summer. And there are finally residents here to attend them, thanks to scattered condo towers filling with suits commuting to the fi-di and techies drawn to the nearby offices of Google, Adobe, and LookSmart, as well as easy access to Valley-bound freeways. New restaurants like Orson, District, and South cater to these flush thirtysomethings with inventive wine lists, menus, and hours (11 p.m. is the new closing time around here). Meanwhile, at casual hangouts like Primo Patio and the Brickhouse Cafe, you can actually spot locals who haven’t just wandered over from watching a Bonds-less nine innings. Add a real grocery store (Safeway) and an airy public library along Fourth Street, plus nearly a dozen furniture stores (including Limn, the best in the city), and you’ve got a neighborhood where people can not only live and work, but also play.
ON THIS SPOT
In 1859, early gold miners flocked to San Francisco, hoping to find wealth on the sandy shores of South Beach, much of which now sits on landfill. At the corner of Townsend and Colin P. Kelly Jr. Streets, a plaque indicates the 1857 shoreline.
HANGOUTS
The Brickhouse Cafe is a welcome change of pace from SoMa’s crowded, chic nightspots. Popular for its eclectic decor, generous pours, and Wagyu beef burgers, this warm hideout offers live local music on Thursday and Friday nights. 426 Brannan St.
Already enjoying a solid following for its innovative cocktails (try the Atlantis) and upscale California cuisine, Bacar rebranded its downstairs lounge last year as Bacar Below, with live jazz on weekends. 448 Brannan St.
THE TALK
Foodies couldn’t wait for the February launch of Orson, Elizabeth Faulkner’s high-concept follow-up to Citizen Cake. But critics’ feedback has been mixed—and an unusual number of Yelpers have assigned it a meager single star, lamenting the “microplate” portions and “poor execution” of “weird and weirder” dishes. Even so, adventurous diners have kept the industrial-chic space booked for its first few months—but it remains to be seen whether they’ll return for a second helping. 508 4th St.
SHOPFRONTS
The country’s largest modern-furnishings showroom and the ultimate avant-garde nesting spot, Limn stocks pieces by more than 1,500 designers, including Droog, Moooi, and Tom Dixon. Dan Friedlander’s other home haven carries the cutting-edge French line Ligne Roset. 290 Townsend St.; 162 King St.
Since 1987, Jeremy’s has been a not-so-secret resource for discontinued and discounted pieces by top designers, like Dolce & Gabbana cocktail dresses, Christian Louboutin pumps, and Seven jeans. 2 S. Park St.
“Wear something rare” is the motto at 440 Brannan, a spacious studio and store that has fostered young designers like the ladies behind Minnie Wilde and Saffron Rare Threads. Check out the sleek, sculpturesque duds by gr.dano. 440 Brannan St.
Infused with the scents of Provence, Ma Maison carries colorful flatware, etched crystal glasses, enticing cookbooks, and aromatic soaps. 592 3rd St.
The one-stop S.F. shop for classical guitar enthusiasts, Guitar Solo packs in an expansive collection of sheet music, CDs, and top-notch axes. The store attracts a star-studded clientele, including Tracy Chap-man and James Taylor, and has its own record label. 230 Townsend St.
WHAT IT COSTS
...to rent: $3,700 for a two-bedroom condo with a chef’s kitchen and walk-in closets, at 170 King St.
...to buy: $939,000 for a two-bedroom-plus condo with a balcony overlooking the ballpark, at 88 King St.
GRUB
The latest in alleyway caffeination, Cento serves up Blue Bottle coffee, polenta, and morning pastries from the back door of recently revamped nightclub 330 Ritch. 360 Ritch St.
Packed early on the weekends for brunch, Town’s End brings you a basket of freshly baked pastries before you even order. Enjoy Mary’s Special: Swedish oatmeal pancakes and eggs seasoned with onions and garlic. In a rush? Grab a cup of coffee and a treat to go from the café. 2 Townsend St.
In the sunny courtyard at Primo Patio, jeans-clad tech workers and besuited professionals order up crowd-pleasing Caribbean fare, especially the flavorful (but not scorchingly hot) jerk chicken. 214 Townsend St.
With moderate prices, attentive service, and tasty Thai dishes like basil chicken and pumpkin curry (served in an actual pumpkin), it’s no wonder that Koh Samui & the Monkey is abuzz well into the night. 415 Brannan St.
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