13 Merlots That Will Make You Appreciate The Easygoing Grape

By Ian Devereux White By Ian Devereux White | December 2, 2021

Despite what Paul Giamatti's character declares in Sideways, here's why it's time for oenophiles to begin to appreciate this easygoing grape.

Peju is a great midrange price-point merlot: Markham Vineyards. PHOTO: BY BOB MCCLENAHAN
Peju is a great midrange price-point merlot.

When I pour my single-vineyard merlot at tastings, I’m often met with raised eyebrows and tilted heads. “Merlot?” my guests ask, hesitantly extending their glasses. “Yes, my favorite, and perhaps the most historically beloved grape of all,” I tell them—usually to their dismay.

The distrust for merlot began almost 20 years ago when Paul Giamatti’s character, Miles, in the hit film Sideways, exclaimed, “If anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving! I am not drinking [expletive] merlot!” It was an inside joke by a merlot-loving character that few understood. And as a result, moviegoers, many of whom found wine confusing or intimidating, were relieved to know one thing for sure: Merlot was not to be trusted. This moment, in conjunction with the reality that there are a lot of bad merlots out there (many in jugs and in boxes), changed the fate of one of the world’s most beloved grapes.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF MARKHAM VINEYARDS

Markham Vineyards

First, merlot is not only one of the most celebrated grapes in Bordeaux, but it also makes wine that comes in a range of flavors and is among the most balanced and ageworthy. As Michelin-star celebrity chef Christopher Kostow recently noted, “My wife and friends tend to drink merlot when we’re grilling at home. It drinks easily, is less tannic and is great with simple, unsauced, grilled meats.”

The grape is also relatively easy to grow, full-flavored yet silky, as good on its own as it is in a blend and pairs easily with all kinds of cuisines. Merlot is like the friend that’s down to eat anywhere, stay up late and party or hang out on the couch and watch a movie.

Bonterra boasts an exceptional value. PHOTO: BY FRANK GUTIERREZ
Bonterra boasts an exceptional value.

“It’s well known in the wine-pro world that merlot is an underrated varietal,” says certified sommelier Meghan Vergara. “Somms often look to specific producers and expressions of merlot to find some of the best price-to-value ratios in red wines. When you study wine, you know that, historically, good merlot stands on its own, and it wasn’t until recently that it fell out of favor. That’s about to change, based on everything I’m seeing from some of the best producers in Napa Valley. It’s time to take another look at well-made merlot.”

So, for those who think they don’t like merlot, become acquainted with this infamous wine immediately. Here’s our roundup of great California merlots to enjoy in the months ahead. We’ve categorized the wines at three price levels.

Longboard Winery PHOTO: BY ANDY KATZ PHOTOGRAPHY
Longboard Winery

EXCEPTIONAL VALUE

BONTERRA CALIFORNIA MERLOT

Organically farmed, rich, silky and full of strawberry and ripe, red fruit flavors.

Peju Winery PHOTO: COURTESY OF PEJU WINERY

Peju Winery

KUNDE FAMILY WINERY SONOMA VALLEY MERLOT

A cabernet drinker’s merlot that’s bold, velvety and boasts flavors of black cherry and spice.

OBERON NAPA VALLEY MERLOT

Lush and complex, this merlot is a great value with tastes of dark berries and chocolate.

Gorgeous bottles from Silverado, Titus and Kunde PHOTO: BY SARA SANGER
Gorgeous bottles from Silverado, Titus and Kunde

MARKHAM NAPA VALLEY MERLOT

Full of bright fruit, this nuanced merlot is one of five prized wines Markham features.

MIDRANGE

BARGETTO SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS MERLOT

Oenophiles will love this smooth but intense merlot with layers of award-winning flavor and cabernetlike structure.

J.O. Sullivan vineyards PHOTO: COURTESY OF SULLIVAN RUTHERFORD ESTATE
J.O. Sullivan vineyards

LONGBOARD DAKINE SONOMA MERLOT

Subtle yet playful, this estate-grown merlot boasts flavors of fresh raspberry and red fruits.

SILVERADO VINEYARDS: 2018 MT. GEORGE SINGL-EVINEYARD MERLOT-NAPA VALLEY

A bold cabernet-lovers merlot, this rare wine is rich, fruit-forward and well structured.

Duckhorn Three Palm PHOTO: COURTESY OF REGAN VINEYARD
Duckhorn Three Palm

TITUS VINEYARDS NAPA VALLEY MERLOT

Deep strawberry, tart cranberry and floral notes make this layered wine a local favorite.

PEJU NAPA VALLEY MERLOT

Another bold cabernet-lovers merlot, a dark fruit and holiday spice headline this flavorful red.

WORTH THE SPLURGE

MEDLOCK AMES ALEXANDER VALLEY-SONOMA

Cocoa, blackberry and fresh herbs abound in this deep, complex merlot.

SAISON 2017 SANTA CRUZ MERLOT

Full of unexpected flavor, this merlot is a journey of earthy textures, blueberry and plum.

Saison 2017 Santa Cruz. PHOTO: BY WILDLY SIMPLE PRODUCTIONS
Saison 2017 Santa Cruz

DUCKHORN THREE PALMS MERLOT-NAPA VALLEY

Duckhorn is counted among the world’s best merlots, and this is its flagship. Enough said.

J.O. SULLIVAN MERLOT

Dark chocolate, toasty spice, depth, complexity and everything nice. A worthy splurge.



Tags: wine

Photography by: FROM TOP: PHOTO BY BOB MCCLENAHAN; PHOTO COURTESY OF MARKHAM VINEYARDS; PHOTO BY FRANK GUTIERREZ; PHOTO: BY ANDY KATZ PHOTOGRAPHY; PHOTO: COURTESY OF PEJU WINERY; PHOTO BY SARA SANGER; PHOTO: COURTESY OF SULLIVAN RUTHERFORD ESTATE; PHOTO: COURTESY OF REGAN VINEYARD; PHOTO: BY WILDLY SIMPLE PRODUCTIONS