Spaghetti with bottarga, the must-order at La Ciccia.
Lolinda is this dark and handsome guy pictured above. An Argentinean steak house, it’s from the group behind Starbelly and Beretta, and the latest restaurant to hit Mission Street. The transformation from what used to be Medjool—the not-particularly-cool, cavernous restaurant that became a bridge-and-tunnel party stop—is kind of amazing. There’s a big bar, a communal bar-height table, and a dining room that’s bordering on intimate. The famous roof deck isn’t open yet, and the mezzanine is only open on weekends. But I see many a holiday party being booking here. As for what to order? Try this: the ceviche—oh, the ceviche!—the grilled artichoke, and the asado mixto (a mix of just-fine chorizo, excellent morcilla made by neighboring Foreign Cinema, short rib, very nice flank steak, potatoes, and roasted shishito peppers). Start with a Whiskey A Go-Go cocktail and then go heavy on the red wine. Call Uber.
I’m looking forward to Labor Day weekend, where I’ll be staying at my parents and luxuriating in some serious Sonoma sunshine. I intend to do my best to dive deep into some summertime eating since we’re at that time of the year when the shadows start to hint at the autumn to come. Should you not know what to cook, I've got your game plan: Make my new favorite summer salad—a Malaysian-inspired grilled vegetable-and-rice salad with coconut, fish sauce, and lime from the kitchen of Fatty 'Cue in New York. I discovered in Bon Appetit magazine and am fully addicted. The last time I made it, I paired it with grilled shrimp, left in the shell, and threaded on a skewer along with cherry tomatoes, and some corn on the cob. You really can’t go wrong.