Four Hot New Restaurants to Try Right Now (exist) - 2

Josh Sens and Rebecca Flint Marx | December 4, 2014 | Story Restaurants

Jack’s Oyster Bar & Fish House
Oakland
Happy hour arrives on the half shell at this spiffed-up seafood shack on Jack London Square, the latest from the team behind Bocanova. Mixing classic and modern currents, the kitchen turns out staples like halibut fish and chips, along with less-expected tastes like pickled mackerel with red curry. Cocktails are crisp, and it’s hard to beat the abundant raw bar. J.S. 336 Water St. (near Franklin St.), 510-271-7952

Vignette Pizzeria
Sebastopol
Mark Hopper, a Thomas Keller–ite whose pizza staff meals were a hit at Bouchon in Las Vegas, brings his dough-slinging skills to this farmhouse-chic space in the Barlow complex, where the blistered pies hew to quick-fired tradition but come in modern permutations (rock shrimp, chili oil, garlic-herbed breadcrumbs). Starters like roasted brussels sprouts with dates and garlic provide an expected salute totheseasons. J.S. 6750 McKinley St. (near Morris St.), 707-861-3897

Plin
Mission
A fourth-generation chef whose family runs a landmark Fisherman’s Wharf restaurant, Alexander Alioto might have coasted on his name and stuck with safe red-sauce cooking. Instead, he’s taking risks with his own Mission spot, where he stages modern riffs on Italian cuisine. Fans of Seven Hills, his Nob Hill alma mater, will recognize Alioto’s egg-and-ricotta raviolo. But dishes like cold spaghetti with raw halibut and braised pork cheeks with jalapeños in a huckleberry glaze are more reflective of the chef’s ambitions. J.S. 280 Valencia St. (near Brosnan St.), 415-644-8425

Quince
Financial District
Reopened in September after a two-month renovation, Michael Tusk’s fine-dining shrine breathes refinement, but also a hospitality that’s as unforced as it is flawless. The same could be said of the food. Swarthy porcini mushrooms are partnered with chicory, chestnuts, and tart huckleberries, while a
coil of tajarin comes dressed to kill in butter, parmigiano reggiano, and white truffle shavings. It’s so pleasurable that the restaurant may want to serve cigarettes to accompany the afterglow. R.F.M. 470 Pacific Ave. (near Montgomery St.), 415-775-8500

Originally published in the December issue of San Francisco

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