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Snap judgments (exist) - 12

Emily Kaiser Thelin | April 2, 2012 | Lifestyle Story City Life Reviews Culture

Humphry Slocombe sells fantastic ice cream. The marketing smarts of Sean Vahey and the culinary brilliance of Jake Godby, a former Coi pastry chef, brought us ice cream for adults, with recipes as iconoclastic as the flavors’ names. (Jesus Juice, for instance, is a sorbet of wine, cola, and cinnamon.) Now the two have brought their dark humor to a cookbook, which, sadly, falls short of their ice cream’s perfection. The text gripes about customers’ questions concerning the strange flavors and Godby’s tattoos; it’s probably meant in fun but leaves the depressing impression that the authors don’t much like their patrons. What’s more disappointing, the three recipes that this DIY ice cream buff tested simply didn’t work. With a cup of wine, Jesus Juice never fully set. Here’s Your Damn Strawberry Ice Cream congealed OK, but had a toothpaste-like texture. The biggest heartbreaker was the shop’s bestseller, Secret Breakfast. A sidebar warned it would be soft because of the bourbon, but folding in the chopped cornflake cookies was impossible because the base was liquid. It finally hardened in the freezer, but when tasted, it was full of ice shards and so potent it scorched the throat, nothing like the exquisite ode to corn-based products at the shop. Takeaway: Save your money to buy ice cream at the counter. Just don’t ask too many questions.

C



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