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Bar Terra

Josh Sens | November 22, 2011 | Food & Drink Story Eat and Drink

In response to a cultural drift away from white table cloths, Lissa Doumani and Hiro Sone have converted half of their terrific restaurant, Terra, to this more relaxed sidekick. The new space has a bar and uncovered tables and a kitchen that operates at perfect pitch. Its East-meets-West menu, offered as a laid-back list of à la carte options, crosses continents without a sign of jet lag. Bacalao fritters are like fried seafood gnocchi, their crisp coats and creamy centers enlivened by an aromatic saffron aioli. The shoyu ramen has the kind of complex broth that only results from slow and careful cooking. Pork trotters and jowls come entangled in the noodles, along with the comforting addition of a coddled egg. There’s a stew of silken tripe and a pairing of seared albacore and sautéed calamari, enriched with black brushstrokes of squid ink, and for dessert, roasted figs in tangy lebne arrayed beside a beautifully fragile pistachio burma.$$$ DRW ★★★

Our review policy: To ensure that we get a typical consumer’s experience in a restaurant, our writers dine anonymously; all expenses are paid by the magazine. Reviews are pulled from our listings two years after the review date or any time personnel changes at a restaurant render a review invalid. Our admittedly imperfect star ratings are based on food quality, variety, service, ambience, and value.

Staff reviewers and contributors to our restaurant guide include John Birdsall, Susan Bryan, Stett Holbrook, Rachel Levin, Jan Newberry, Josh Sens, and Lisa Trottier.

Prices:
Average price of an entrée:
$ = $10 or less
$$ = $11–17
$$$ = $18–24
$$$$ = $25 or more

Symbols:
D = Dinner only
R = Reservation required/recommended
C = Cash only
V = Valet parking
W = Wheelchair accessible

Ratings:
★★★★ = superlative
★★★ = excellent
★★ = very good
= good



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