By Laura Measher By Laura Measher | September 16, 2021 | Food & Drink,
These six restaurants remind us that Bay Area dining is back in a big way this fall.
Taj Campton Place’s lobster poached in ghee with sweet onions, young peas and coastal curry
Dinner service is back at Taj Campton Place, marking the return of its iconic kitchen. The Michelin-starred restaurant—11 years in a row—blends local California ingredients with all of the flavors of Indian cuisine. Executive chef Srijith Gopinathan’s South Indian upbringing and taste for experimentation have inspired the eclectic fare, available on the new fall menu, alongside familiar signature dishes. “For the fall menu, I’ve been thinking of doing sweet potato-crusted octopus, grilled green grapes and kala chaat masala, as well as avocado charred over embers, coya sauce, sockeye roe and carrot blossom,” Gopinathan says. “I look forward to rejoining San Francisco’s incredible culinary landscape.” 340 Stockton St., 415.955.5555
ESTIATORIO ORNOS, A MICHAEL MINA RESTAURANT
Ouzo prawns in spicy tomato from Estiatorio Ornos
A wave of coastal Greek influence arrived in San Francisco last month with the opening of Estiatorio Ornos, a seafood-centric restaurant by esteemed chefs Michael Mina, Girair “Jerry” Goumroian and Nikolaos Georgousis. The menu, featuring dishes like the phyllo-crusted Dover sole with skordalia and green beans, and the diver scallops with Aegean quinoa, pistachio and fresno chile, is inspired by their shared Mediterranean background. In the dining room, carts showcase Greek sweets, the catch of the day, and various dips and spreads. And though Estiatorio Ornos is located in the Financial District, diners are transported to the Mediterranean coast by way of open windows; Mykonos-style music; and warm, Mediterranean hospitality. 252 California St.
The Bistro Boudin bar
The newest addition to San Francisco’s legendary Boudin Bakery, Bistro Boudin boasts panoramic waterfront views, an impressive bill of fare and a taste of local history. Known for its original sourdough, which dates back to 1849, the bakery has built an upstanding legacy. Now, with a kitchen led by executive chef Misael Reyes, the bistro brings classics like the bread bowl with clam chowder, and crab and corn bisque alongside offerings like the citrus-brined Duroc pork chop, served with blue cheese, scalloped potatoes and haricot verts. The restaurant focuses on using high-quality, fresh ingredients from local farms and ranches. 160 Jefferson St., 415.351.5561
Chilled beef tendon and fine vegetable salad with acorn jelly from San Ho Won
Founded by acclaimed chef Corey Lee, San Ho Won is slated to arrive in the Mission District by the fall with a bounty of delectable offerings. Lee, who earned three Michelin stars at Benu, brings his heritage to the table with Korean cuisine and charcoal barbecue. Meaning “mountain tiger origin,” San Ho Won is inspired by Korea’s folk tales and traditional identity as the land of mountains and tigers. With past menu items such as the beef short rib, braised in pear and finished over charcoal, and fresh-milled rice cakes with spring garlic and asparagus, San Ho Won promises an unforgettable dining experience. 2170 Bryant St.
Albacore and stonecrop namul salad, both from San Ho Won
Old and new San Francisco are coming together at Fredericks, The Clift Royal Sonesta Hotel’s new cafe and eatery. Helmed by executive chef Daniel Corey, Fredericks dishes up creative fare for breakfast and lunch. The breakfast menu features pastries alongside dishes like the California shakshuka with poached eggs, tomatoes and yogurt. For lunch, diners can enjoy salads and sandwiches or more substantial offerings like fish tacos with local rock cod, smoked jalapeño crema and marinated cabbage. The eatery, named for the original property owner, nods to the 1920s, with black-and-white tile floors and exposed brick, but caters to the modern, busy customer with high-end coffee, gourmet snacks and to-go options. 495 Geary St., 415.775.4700
Located an hour outside San Francisco in Sonoma County, the restaurant is located at wine country marketplace Cornerstone Sonoma. Folktable’s consulting executive chef—and former Top Chef finalist—Casey Thompson brings worldly cooking techniques, including from Thailand and Argentina, to the table. These influences can be detected in dishes like the spicy yellowfin poke, served with chile flake, kizami nori and ancient grains. But Folktable’s team keeps the ingredients local, sourcing seasonally from its own organic farms as well as Sonoma County’s bountiful agriculture. 23584 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707.356.3567
Warung Siska’s Bakwan corn fritters
Opened this summer, Warung Siska dishes up modern Indonesian cuisine with fresh, sustainably sourced California ingredients. The eatery is inspired by Indonesian warungs: casual neighborhood eateries that supply home-cooked meals. This atmosphere is embraced by Warung Siska’s dining room, which features traditional handpainted fabric pillows, communal tables and an area to view the chefs at work. For Jakarta native chef Siska Silitonga, the menu represents her roots, bringing classic dishes and adaptations of her childhood favorites to the Bay Area. Standout dishes include the Balinese grilled pork jowl with sauteed spinach, tomato relish and peanuts. Likewise, locally sourced craft beers and fine wines are on offer to provide the perfect meal pairings. 917 Main St., Redwood City, 650.393.5515
Photography by: ESTIATORIO ORNOS DISH PHOTO BY DAVID VARLEY; PHOTO COURTESY OF BRANDS