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Cheap Eats: Wing Wings

Rachel Levin | October 21, 2011 | Story Restaurants

Lower Haight
Behold, the single- menu-item restaurant, if you can really call it that—this closet of a storefront lined with stools, tins of Old Bay Seasoning, and a couple of boom boxes. Baltimore boy Christian Ciscle keeps things simple, with nine flavors of fried wings, sold in boxes—small ($6), large ($10), or jumbo ($23, mix and match). This works out to about a buck a wing (or drumette), which, according to wing connoisseurs, is on the pricier side. But then again, these aren’t your ordinary cayenne-peppered, butter-doused generic-brand-bird appendages. This being San Francisco, the chicken is free range. And everything that goes with it is made from, er, scratch, including brown sugar–and–black pepper biscuits, fiery coleslaw, seasoned fries, and flavorful fried oyster mushrooms—though the latter two items grow soggy in transit, and since this is primarily a takeout joint, that’s not good. But the wings! Sticky, and meaty, with inventive seasonings: the chili, sesame seed, and scallion–flecked Angry Korean; the signature Wing Wing, with a sweet ginger-soy sauce; and, of course, the traditional (and hot-as-hell) Buffalo. Luckily, those travel quite well—to the bar down the street, to a Monday night football party, or just back home for family dinner.

422 Haight St. (bet. Webster and Fillmore Sts.)
$ W ★½

Our review policy: To ensure that we get a typical consumer’s experience in a restaurant, our writers dine anonymously; all expenses are paid by the magazine. Reviews are pulled from our listings two years after the review date or any time personnel changes at a restaurant render a review invalid. Our admittedly imperfect star ratings are based on food quality, variety, service, ambience, and value.
Staff reviewers and contributors to our restaurant guide include John Birdsall, Susan Bryan, Stett Holbrook, Rachel Levin, Jan Newberry, Josh Sens, and Lisa Trottier.

Average price of an entrée:
$ = $10 or less
$$ = $11–17
$$$ = $18–24
$$$$ = $25 or more

D = Dinner only
R = Reservation required/recommended
C = Cash only
V = Valet parking
W = Wheelchair accessible

★★★★ = superlative
★★★ = excellent
★★ = very good
★ = good
✩ = below average


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