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Diagram of a Dish

Sara Deseran | February 8, 2013 | Food & Drink Story Eat and Drink

When it comes to Valentine’s Day wooing, a dozen doughnuts from Doughnut Dolly make the prosaic box of chocolates look like a buzz kill. Since opening her mini Temescal shop in the fall, Hannah Hoffman, a food anthropologist by education, has been filling her sophisticated treats to order. Choosing between cream or jam is your only dilemma.
482 B 49th St. (Near Telegraph Ave.), 510-338-6738

THE DOUGH
“I spent a year perfecting the dough. My friends came back from St. John’s restaurant in London and told me how light the doughnuts there are. It sounded like they were made from brioche, so I mimicked that texture. To make them, I get up at 2 a.m. and go to our catering kitchen to start rolling the dough by 3 a.m. Then I go to work at the shop. After the shop closes, I go back to the bakery to make the dough for the next day.”

THE PEDIGREE
“My mother was a pastry chef at Chez Panisse from 1971, when it opened, until 1987, so that’s how I learned how to bake. She’s not alive now, but she would have gotten a total kick out of this because I spent 10 years in college trying to get away from the kitchen. Now I’m back where I belong.”

THE INSPIRATION
“The cream filling, made with crème fraîche mixed with a vanilla bean pastry cream, is an homage to Heather Ho, the pastry chef at Boulevard who was killed in the 9/11 attack when she was working at Windows on the World. She called it Naughty Cream—that was her name for it.”

THE FILLING
“You can get doughnuts with two fillings. If you mix Naughty Cream with Mexican Chocolate Cream, you get a Naughty Mexican!”

Originally published in the February 2013 issue of San Francisco Magazine

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