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Famished: More than Just Oysters in Point Reyes

Sara Deseran | April 26, 2013 | Story Restaurants

Those of you who have been mourning the loss of Manka’s to fire back in 2006 should be happy to know about Sir and Star, the restaurant that they’ve slowly been opening since last summer. My husband and I drove up the other Thursday evening for dinner and I felt like I’d been transported.

A lot of it has to do with the space. Sir and Star is located in the former circa 1876 Olema Inn, the landmark building where you hang a right if you’re headed towards Point Reyes. When I booked our room at the Point Reyes Seashore Lodge, located directly across the street, I asked the reservationist if she’d heard good things since Margaret Grade and Daniel Delong took over the Olema restaurant. “Well,” she said, “people seem to either love it or hate it. And,” she added with a touch of horror, “they painted it black.”

It’s actually charcoal grey—and very handsome against the lush green backdrop of spring. The rustic, farmhouse-like interior is mixed with crisp white, creaky wood floors, and big paned windows looking out onto the lawn in back. It’s country sophisticated. On a cold night, there’s a roaring fire in the fireplace. In typical female form, my first thought was, if I was getting married, I’d be booking this right now for my rehearsal dinner.

Though I’d actually never gotten to dine at Manka’s, I know that it was famous for keeping everything very wild and local. The same here. Briny Tomales Bay oysters come in shot glasses with a little cold jelly made of their liquor. A decadent duck liver mousse called Faux Gras is a good reminder that foie gras was overrated. Smoky roasted artichokes come with a little feta-walnut dip. “A Neighbors Quail Plumped with Kale” is a typical quirky menu entry—this dish is reminiscent of Thanksgiving in May. The food largely humble but beautiful and prices hover under $20, which is appreciated.

The whole experience is a memorable one. And I imagine I’m not the only one sending their friends to go experience it. Dinner is served Wednesday through Saturday (though Saturday night is a chef’s meal for $75). Get on OpenTable soon. They just started taking online reservations.

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