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Martins West, reviewed

Susan Bryan | May 8, 2012 | Food & Drink Story Restaurants Eat and Drink

Redwood City
The beer list here is a dizzying menu of lagers, pilsners, IPAs, lambics, porters, stouts, and witbiers. The kitchen is equally ambitious, transforming dour Scottish sustenance into clever dishes that are a spot-on match for the beers. There’s haggis-on-a-stick, an elegantly puffy version of a corn dog, and a brute of a bone that yields marrow as silky as foie gras. Chunky Scotch eggs are daintily resurrected as quail eggs wrapped in peppery sausage, then fried in crunchy crumbs, while buttery lamb’s- tongue pastrami fills a soul-satisfying slider. The fragile ale batter on fish and chips pleasantly shatters on contact. Don’t forget to ask for bread; you’ll get wheat warm from the oven. 831 Main St. (at Broadway), 650-366-4366 $$ RW **


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