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Notes From a New York Pizza Snob

Rebecca Flint Marx | March 5, 2014 | Story Restaurants

If you take a New York–style pizza out of New York, depriving it of both local water and Big Apple attitude, is it still a New York–style pizza?

As a fresh-off-the-boat New Yorker, I hit the Presidio Pizza Company to find out. Owned by Brooklyn-reared chef Frank Bumbalo, the joint is attempting to bring a taste of New York to Lower Pacific Heights. Happily, the menu keeps things simple, as it should: The round cheese pie—upon which many a slice joint’s reputation lives or dies—hits the right notes with a smear of sweet tomato sauce, ample milky mozz, and (most crucially) a thin crispy-chewy crust with a reassuring amount of char. While it might not spark a Proustian reverie, it is certainly deserving enough to be folded in half and eaten properly.

The most New York part of all? Presidio is open until 2:30 a.m. on weekends.

1862 Divisadero St. (at Pine St.), 415-409-6672

Originally published in the March issue of San Francisco

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