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Passover, Overhauled

Rebecca Flint Marx | April 11, 2014 | Story Ingredient

READ MORE: A New York expat wanders SF's Jewish food desert.

Matzo Ball Soup, Beauty’s Bagel Shop In the eternal floaters-versus-sinkers skirmish, the matzo balls at Beauty’s Bagel Shop fall defiantly into the latter faction. Despite their croquet-ball dimensions, they’re actually rather refined specimens, served in a vibrant vegetable broth. $5 per serving; 3838 Telegraph Ave. (near 38th St.), Oakland, 510-788-6098

Smoked Black Cod, Cap’n Mike’s Holy Smoked Salmon Also known as sablefish, smoked black cod used to be referred to as “the poor man’s sturgeon.” But the rich, silky fish sold by Cap’n Mike’s Holy Smoked Salmon is fit for royalty. $69.95/lb.; Ferry Plaza Farmers Market (Embarcadero at Market St.), 707-585-2000

Matzo, Marla Bakery Historically a symbol of deprivation, matzo doesn’t tend to inspire exclamations of pleasure—unless it’s the improbably crispy and lightly blistered matzo from Amy Brown at Marla Bakery. $5 per pack of two; 613 York St. (near 18th St.), 415-824-2253

Whitefish Salad, Paulie’s Pickling The folks at Paulie’s Pickling turned to the mother country for their creamy, utterly addictive smoked-whitefish salad. Made in Brooklyn by Blue Hill Bay, the simple mashup of smoked fish and mayonnaise is worthy of its own religious celebration. $3 For 4 oz.; 331 Cortland Ave. (near Bennington St.), 415-285-0800

Charoset, Local Mission Market Charoset is typically made with apples and walnuts, but local Mission Market’s takes its compulsively delicious cues from Sephardic tradition, mingling dates, dried peaches, livermore walnuts, and toasted almonds with blood orange zest and verjus. $10 For 16 oz.; 2670 Harrison St. (at 23rd St.), 415-795-3355

Originally published in the April issue of San Francisco

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