1. Bayerischer Bahnh of Berliner Weisse, Germany A low alcohol content—just 3 percent—and slightly sour notes of lemon and under-ripe apricot make this an excellent match with almost everything on the menu, but I especially like it with the langos, a deep-fried Hungarian bread.
2. De Struise Svea IPA, Belgium A perfect antidote to overly hoppy IPAs, it has a lovely maltiness and a restrained bitter edge that pair well with the rich and complex flavors on the plate.
3. Haandbryggeriet Hesjeol Smoked Beer, Norway Made from grains dried with smoke, this beer has a lighter, crisper nature than you’d expect. But its smoky overtones merge beautifully with Balla’s meat dishes, and its well-honed edges allow it to play with dishes seasoned with vinegar.
Bar Tartine: 561 Valencia St., S.F., 415-487-1600
Read more about beer at Bar Tartine here.