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Smokin' Warehouse Barbecue

Josh Sens | October 21, 2011 | Story Restaurants

Bayview—Hunters Point
The building blocks of barbecue rarely change, but the backdrops for it vary. At this scrappy operation, familiar slow-cooked meats and sticky-finger sides emerge through the window of a Bayview warehouse, a bright spot on a block of industrial blight. The 10-hour-cooked brisket is all that you could ask for, the meat as soft as brie and tinged with tangy flavor, and the glistening pork ribs are just what you’d expect—a hands-on indulgence that warrants the Wet-Wipes that come on every plate. To those who like their ’cue with a vinegary kick, the pulled-pork sandwich will likely taste too sweet, to say nothing of the baked beans, which cloy after one mouthful, or the cornbread, which is so intensely sugared that it might as well be cake. But the slaw is lighter and brighter, and a nicely spiced steak chili is a spot-on side. A large bowl of it is a meal in itself, to be eaten, if there’s room, at a lone picnic table—or, just as likely, while you’re seated between tow trucks on the curb.

1465 Carroll Ave. (bet. Ingalls and Jennings Sts.), S.F.
$ ★½

Our review policy: To ensure that we get a typical consumer’s experience in a restaurant, our writers dine anonymously; all expenses are paid by the magazine. Reviews are pulled from our listings two years after the review date or any time personnel changes at a restaurant render a review invalid. Our admittedly imperfect star ratings are based on food quality, variety, service, ambience, and value.
Staff reviewers and contributors to our restaurant guide include John Birdsall, Susan Bryan, Stett Holbrook, Rachel Levin, Jan Newberry, Josh Sens, and Lisa Trottier.

Average price of an entrée:
$ = $10 or less
$$ = $11–17
$$$ = $18–24
$$$$ = $25 or more

D = Dinner only
R = Reservation required/recommended
C = Cash only
V = Valet parking
W = Wheelchair accessible

★★★★ = superlative
★★★ = excellent
★★ = very good
★ = good
✩ = below average


Photography by: