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Sons & Daughters' Spin-Off

Josh Sens | May 31, 2012 | Food & Drink Story Restaurants Eat and Drink

Nob Hill
Since the recession hit, it seems that every refined restaurant has felt compelled to sire a casual offspring. The concept is an oldie, but it can be a goodie, as evidenced by this Sons & Daughters spin-off, where chefs Teague Moriarty and Matt McNamara turn their well-trained hands to counter service fare. At lunch, the menu is a mix of soup, lively salads (little gems with Cara Cara oranges and crumbled olives), and high-bred sandwiches such as roasted suckling pig smacked with salsa verde, pickles, and ghost pepper aioli. As the day wears on, the kitchen adds an entrĂ©e. Gnocchi with housemade sausage, peas, and parmesan is a perfect rustic fit for the distressed-wood setting, but it could hold its own in a formal dining room. Sweets—lots of them—include a crustless banana cream pie that is more like pudding and a Rice Krispies treat, in a satisfying, if cinder-block size, serving. 798 Sutter St. (at Jones St.), S.F., 415-292-9090 $ W **1/2



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