Sons & Daughters' Spin-Off

Nob Hill
Since the recession hit, it seems that every refined restaurant has felt compelled to sire a casual offspring. The concept is an oldie, but it can be a goodie, as evidenced by this Sons & Daughters spin-off, where chefs Teague Moriarty and Matt McNamara turn their well-trained hands to counter service fare. At lunch, the menu is a mix of soup, lively salads (little gems with Cara Cara oranges and crumbled olives), and high-bred sandwiches such as roasted suckling pig smacked with salsa verde, pickles, and ghost pepper aioli. As the day wears on, the kitchen adds an entrée. Gnocchi with housemade sausage, peas, and parmesan is a perfect rustic fit for the distressed-wood setting, but it could hold its own in a formal dining room. Sweets—lots of them—include a crustless banana cream pie that is more like pudding and a Rice Krispies treat, in a satisfying, if cinder-block size, serving. 798 Sutter St. (at Jones St.), S.F., 415-292-9090 $ W **1/2