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The Starter: The Bean-nik Generation

Sara Deseran | December 7, 2012 | Food & Drink Story Restaurants Eat and Drink

Ever since Caffe Trieste lured the Beats to its doors, North Beach has been known as a good place to get a cappuccino. But it has never been as good as right now, with coffee’s third wave moving en masse onto the Italians’ turf.

First came the Station, which opened on the cusp of the hood in August and offers Blue Bottle, plus Taylor Stitch clothing and bike-fitting services. Next came Beacon Coffee & Pantry, which is loyal to Sightglass. Most notable, however, is the arrival of Chris and Tommy Newbury, who parked their excellent, no-attitude Réveille Coffee truck in Jackson Square two years ago. In November, the twentysomething brothers, devotees of Fourbarrel, put down roots in the historic Columbus Avenue flatiron building, where their Scandinavian-chic café lets locals escape tourists and tourists feel like locals. May we suggest to Lawrence Ferlinghetti, still a regular at Trieste after all these years, that it’s time he switched loyalties?

Réveille Coffee, 200 Columbus Ave. (at Pacific Ave.), 415-789-6258

Originally published in the December 2012 issue of San Francisco.

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