Wine Kitchen's fried offering.
Buffalo, New York, native Jason Limburg shellacks fried sweetbreads ($13) in a near-neon-orange vinegar-chili sauce and plates them with shaved radish and herby housemade ranch.
507 Divisadero St. (near Fell St.), 415-525-3485
Get the chicken-fried sweetbreads ($16), which are soaked in buttermilk and dusted with Wondra flour, giving each nugget a browned and crispy exterior.
417 Stockton St. (near Sutter St.), 415-400-0561
The Corner Store
Tossed in buttery hot sauce, Nick Adams’s Buffalo sweetbreads ($10) arrive over blue cheese aioli, with sprinkles of salsa verde. They have such a following that he can’t remove them from the menu.
5 Masonic Ave. (at Geary blvd.), 415- 359-1800
Originally published in the March 2013 issue of San Francisco.