By The Editors By The Editors | November 18, 2021 | Food & Drink, Feature,
Dining came back in a big way this year, and these newly debuted eateries undoubtedly made a splash.
Four of San Francisco’s top bartenders are the brains behind the Mission District’s all-day bar and cafe Buddy, which is in the former Californios space on 22nd Street. The founding quartet—Nora Furst, Alvaro Rojas, Claire Sprouse and Nicolas Torres—promise patrons exceptional drinks and a classic cafe vibe that’s meant to be experienced all day, not just at night. While the idea was originally inspired by Furst and Torres’ pop-up, Nic n Nora, Rojas and Sprouse joined the team after the decision to open a permanent location. “We all learned a lot [during] COVID. I’m excited to see what it becomes,” Torres says. “The team is so strong.” The team added its own touches and made the space feel bright. And although the group may be known for its cocktails, a mutual love of wine guides Buddy’s focus. Add in some classic California cuisine—from small bites to full meals—and Buddy is a spot not to miss. 3115 22nd St., San Francisco
Le Fantastique is the brainchild of chef Robbie Wilson and Emily Perry Wilson of Palo Alto’s BIRD DOG, and the origin story dates back to 2014. Of the name Le Fantastique, inspired by Robbie’s fondness for French flavors and Japanese technique, he says, “My mind is a strobe light, so like most thoughts and ideas, it just popped in my head.” Robbie’s experience of creating the menu and flushing out the details of what Le Fantastique would be began in partnership with his best friend, who passed away before the opening. “This project was meant to be with him, but now is for him,” he adds. An inventive composition of raw fish dishes, French white wine and Champagne, bread and butter, and other French-inspired selects, some executed with Japanese technique, make up the menu. “The inspiration came from memories of evenings in Santa Barbara with another best friend of ours, listening to records, eating raw fish with great bread and butter, and drinking white Burgundy and Champagne,” Robbie notes. The menu features standouts like the shima aji cured in lemon leaves and an oil made from grilled, dry-aged ribeye bones, as well as the bread and butter with crab fat and the house’s version of Old Bay Seasoning with espelette. 22 Franklin St., San Francisco
The historic Tribune Tower in downtown Oakland is home to a buzzy new American brasserie named, you guessed it, Tribune. The eatery is helmed by experienced restaurateurs Omri Aflalo, Darrin Ballon and John Cahill. Award-winning designer Jon de la Cruz spearheaded Tribune’s interior renovations while accentuating popular design elements from the 1900s, when the building was erected—think brass fixtures, relic mirrors and tufted leather benches. The Tribune menu consists of dishes from Aflalo’s and Cahill’s French culinary training and the seasonal produce in the Bay Area, such as potato gnocchi, grilled branzino amandine and sticky toffee pudding. One menu highlight is the Tribune Burger, a 6-ounce beef patty complete with a red onion schmear on a bun from Oakland’s Firebrand Artisan Breads. 401 13th St., Oakland
Californios has a lot to brag about: two Michelin stars, a taste for invention and, as of 2021, a new SoMa dining space with a sleek look and a lush enclosed garden patio. The family-operated eatery is co-owned by executive chef Val Cantú, his wife Carolyn Cantú and her sister (and beverage director) Charlotte Randolph. Named after the Mexican people who settled California, Californios explores Mexican cuisine while keeping the menu contemporary and the ingredients local. The nightly tasting menu is seasonal and ever-changing, but has previously included unique fare like the chilapita with fresh Pacific geoduck clam and pickled kumquat filling, and the purple Peruvian masa infladita with sweet Hokkaido sea urchin. A variety of beverage accompaniments are also on hand, drawing from Californios’ expansive, 3,000-bottle cellar. The bill of fare is notoriously lengthy and (unless you request a menu) a surprise, so diners should be sure to bring a large appetite and an open mind. 355 11th St., San Francisco
It’s been more than seven years since 838 Grant Ave. has served something memorable, something special. What was once one of San Francisco’s most iconic Chinese restaurants, Empress of China, is now home to Empress by Boon, a contemporary take on the beloved spot. The concept of Empress by Boon pays homage to the previous restaurant, which was hailed for nearly 50 years as the go-to Chinatown dining and event space, by taking its beloved cuisine and look and executing an original spin on both aspects. The 7,500-square-foot space steers its focus toward modernism by offering diners more current Cantonese fare—rather than traditional—through a menu built with ingredients grown on the restaurant’s farm in Gilroy. Michelin-starred chef Ho Chee Boon notes the farm-to-table menu features "ingredients not typical to Chinese food, which will surprise and delight guests.” 838 Grant Ave., San Francisco
Since 2015, Michelin-starred Lord Stanley has served up modern European fare, but that all changed in September when husband-and-wife owners Rupert and Carrie Blease ushered in a novel concept: a rotating showcase of great chefs. The restaurant’s transformation into the pop-up-style Turntable allows patrons to experience an exceptional assortment of tastes from around the globe. Through Turntable, the couple want to re-create the experience of traveling, cooking and eating abroad right from their Polk Street space. Each featured chef creates a menu using local ingredients sourced with the help of Rupert and Carrie, who introduce them to their nearby markets, suppliers and farmers. The structure allows the chefs to try new concepts in both the dining room and take-away window—allowing the opportunity to create casual menu options along with fine dining courses. With a rotating door of diverse chefs from all corners of the world and an immense freedom to create, Turntable provides a cultural experience for San Francisco diners and a chance to taste their local ingredients in a whole new way. 2065 Polk St., San Francisco
Chef David Yoshimura introduced a fresh wave of Japanese American cuisine into Russian Hill with his new restaurant, Nisei. Originally started as a pop-up in 2019, Nisei temporarily shifted operations to preparing and serving luxury bento boxes during the pandemic; the culinary team also provided the boxes to seniors in Japantown when the city was in lockdown. Nisei’s new location features a main dining room, private dining room and sister bar Iris, managed by Ilya Romanov. Yoshimura and his colleagues aim to transform Japanese home cooking into a fine-dining experience heavily influenced by local California products. “Most people stereotype Japanese food as only sushi or ramen, when, in reality, there’s a deep culture of the cuisine that I’m hoping to bring to light at Nisei,” says Yoshimura. With dishes like the seared scallops, served with pine nut miso and granola, diners can explore this cuisine in its top form. 2316 Polk St.
Photography by: Photo courtesy of Tribune