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Update: Dio Deka

Josh Sens | December 28, 2011 | Food & Drink Story Restaurants Eat and Drink

Los Gatos
Ripples from the Greek financial crisis have yet to reach the economic island of Los Gatos. Witness the crowds—and the price of the lamb chops—at this upmarket purveyor of Hellenic cuisine. Granted, the restaurant now enjoys renewed allure, what with the arrival of Manresa vet Marty Cattaneo, whose skills mesh nicely with
a kitchen that shuns mystery-meat gyros and shapes its spinach pies into golden pyramids. Starters, in particular, are a strength, among them roasted red pepper–and-pear soup, garnished with cilantro and a streak of almond milk, and fried lamb meatballs, elevated here with lemony yogurt, a side of blistered grapes, and a tableside pouring of minty herb broth. Both set a standard unmatched by an entrée of grilled whole daurade, which turns up à la carte, with a garlicky bagna càuda, tasting fishier than it should. Under Cattaneo, the menu is in the midst of an overhaul (an artful roasted strawberry–and-beet salad with sheep’s milk custard is one of the chef’s modernist musings), but the setting has retained its conservative currents: Masculine, moneyed, it’s a fitting backdrop for a beautifully marbled, $79 mesquite-grilled filet mignon. You are, after all, dining off the lobby of the Hotel Los Gatos, where the recession feels half a world away. (J.S.)

210 E. MAIN ST. (AT HIGH SCHOOL CT.), 408-354-7700 $$$$ DRW ★★½

Our review policy: To ensure that we get a typical consumer’s experience in a restaurant, our writers dine anonymously; all expenses are paid by the magazine. Reviews are pulled from our listings two years after the review date or any time personnel changes at a restaurant render a review invalid. Our admittedly imperfect star ratings are based on food quality, variety, service, ambience, and value.

Staff reviewers and contributors to our restaurant guide include John Birdsall, Susan Bryan, Stett Holbrook, Rachel Levin, Jan Newberry, Josh Sens, and Lisa Trottier.

Prices:
Average price of an entrée:
$ = $10 or less
$$ = $11–17
$$$ = $18–24
$$$$ = $25 or more

Symbols:
D = Dinner only
R = Reservation required/recommended
C = Cash only
V = Valet parking
W = Wheelchair accessible

Ratings:
★★★★ = superlative
★★★ = excellent
★★ = very good
= good



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