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Update: One Market

Josh Sens | December 28, 2011 | Food & Drink Story Restaurants Eat and Drink

A New Yorker–style cartoon, hanging in a hallway of One Market, shows a well-dressed woman clutching a champagne flute while eyeing an hors d’oeuvre and declaring to her cohort, “I adore caviar. Especially when the company is paying for it.” And there you have it: a caption that distills a restaurant’s secret of success. With its prime location—and its weekly prime rib special—this cheerful downtown redoubt has long enjoyed a lock on post-work San Franciscans and business travelers who don’t want to eat at just another steakhouse while dining on the strength of an expense account. Under chef Mark Dommen, the menu caters smartly to this audience’s interests, balancing conservative conventioneer favorites (beef carpaccio; Caesar salad) with Cal-Med flashes that aren’t so fanciful that the boys back at the office would call them fey. For every dish that strains against the mainstream, like grilled mahimahi with delicata squash and an acid spike of lime oil, at least two others (bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin; New York steak with red-wine butter) hew to convention. Add in a wine list stocked with brawny reds and hefty desserts like pumpkin cheesecake, and you understand the draw for a certain market. It’s when you’re out for intrigue, and eating on your own dime, that dinner here is harder to adore. (J.S.)

1 MARKET ST. (AT STEUART ST.), S.F., 415-777-5577 $$$ RVW ★★

Our review policy: To ensure that we get a typical consumer’s experience in a restaurant, our writers dine anonymously; all expenses are paid by the magazine. Reviews are pulled from our listings two years after the review date or any time personnel changes at a restaurant render a review invalid. Our admittedly imperfect star ratings are based on food quality, variety, service, ambience, and value.

Staff reviewers and contributors to our restaurant guide include John Birdsall, Susan Bryan, Stett Holbrook, Rachel Levin, Jan Newberry, Josh Sens, and Lisa Trottier.

Average price of an entrée:
$ = $10 or less
$$ = $11–17
$$$ = $18–24
$$$$ = $25 or more

D = Dinner only
R = Reservation required/recommended
C = Cash only
V = Valet parking
W = Wheelchair accessible

★★★★ = superlative
★★★ = excellent
★★ = very good
= good


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